THE ROADSIDE GEOLOGY OF WALES

Chapter 6

SOUTHERN DYFED--SOUTHWEST WALES 

See SW Wales introduction for a Time Scale and outline of the geology of SW Wales

The Pembroke Peninsula and east to Pendine and Carmarthen

 

 

Fig. 29. Geologic map of the coastal region between Manorbier and St. Govan's Head.

               

                The peninsula south of Pembroke crosses folded Devonian Old Red Sandstone and Carboniferous Limestone, but the only exposures are in the cliffs. The rocks were strongly folded during the Hercynian collision when Gondwana docked with the Avalon/North American block.

 
    Freshwater East (202 198)

                 The valley leading to the shore at Freshwater East follows Ordovician rocks in the core of a large anticlinal fold, though no Ordovician outcrops appear on the shore. On either side of this fold --on the southern headland and the northern cliffs-- are Devonian Old Red Sandstone conglomerate.

 

    Stackpole Quay (199 196)

Fig. 30. Thick-bedded Carboniferous Limestone dips north at Stackpole Quay (Fig. 29). The limestone thrust north over Devonian Old Red Sandstone beds, seen in the far cliffs.


                Complex folds created during the Hercynian collision are well exposed at Stackpole Quay (Fig. 29).  The harbour is in the core of an arch, or anticline, in Carboniferous Limestone. A set of fractures crossing the bedding opened when the rocks stretched around the crest of the fold.

                South of the harbour, a fault separates this fold from the vertically tilted layers of limestone to the west. Farther south, the limestone shows spectacular large folds. But by Stackpole Head (Fig. 29), the layers of limestone are horizontal.

                A fault north of the harbour separates the limestone from folded mudstone and sandstone deposited during Devonian time.

 


    St. Govan's Head (197 193)

Fig. 31. Geologic map of west part of Pembroke peninsula.

 

                St. Govan's Head, accessed by C-class roads, has fifty-metre-high cliffs of thick horizontal beds of Carboniferous Limestone. The limestone has nearly vertical joints that are the ideal arrangement for making high vertical cliffs. There are fine outcrops of the limestone along the path down to the chapel built in a cleft in the cliff. The massive limestone forms continuous cliffs northeast to Stackpole Head and Stackpole Quay. St. Govan's Head lies just south of a firing range; the army closes the road during military exercises.

 






    Freshwater West (187 200)

Fig. 32. Geologic map of Freshwater West.

                The rocks at Freshwater West are Devonian mudstone with a few sandstone layers, and are mostly below high tide. Some are in the danger zone of a military firing range--keep out.            

                At the northern end of the wave-cut platform, the Old Red Sandstone rocks lie unconformably on folded lower Palaeozoic rocks. Beneath the barnacles and seaweed are the lowest beds of the Old Red Sandstone, quartz pebble conglomerate.

                Farther south, and above the conglomerate, the rocks are mostly mudstone. They are green in the lower layers but gradually become red upwards before they reach the stack, called Little Furznip. Mudstone in the stack contains layers of blotchy white calcite; this is the same rock, caliche, you see at Llanstephan (235 210) (Fig. 42) and Manorbier (206 198) (Fig. 34). Further east, a fault breaks the rocks between the stack and the cliff. You can see its offset in the displacement of the white caliche. The Hercynian mountain building fractured the rocks, giving them a weak slaty cleavage cutting nearly vertically through the mudstone.

                Rocks south of Little Furznip are mostly mudstone, but they include many sandstone beds as much as two metres thick. The sandstones are cross-bedded. It is easy to imagine floods depositing them as they swept across the mudflats. As the floods reached deeper water, the sand settled on the sloping front of the pile of sand making the cross beds. Rocks higher in the sequence are dominantly red mudstone.

                The firing range sign prohibits looking at the rocks higher in the sequence. They are red mudstone, overlain by the Ridgeway conglomerate, the same rocks you see west of Tenby, and on the Gower.

                The cliffs at Freshwater West show a wonderful display of the effects of the last ice age. Cemented scree, collected as frost-shattered pieces at the beginning of the ice age and covers the rocks in the cliffs. Boulder clay, or till, lies on the scree, laid down by the advancing glacier. The till is in turn overlain by sand deposited from melt water shed from the glaciers as they melted at the end of the ice age. Finally, recent sand dunes advanced about two kilometres inland from the shore, covering all older rocks. The wave-cut platform at the base of the sea cliffs is also a recent feature.

    West Angle Cove (185 203)

 

                A tightly folded syncline in the cove at the west end of Angle exposes the Carboniferous Limestone in the core; the older rocks of Old Red Sandstone occur in the limbs of the syncline to the north and south. The beds on the north side of the cove dip about 50 degrees to the south, and those on the south dip about 40 degrees to the north, outlining the large syncline formed during the Hercynian collision. The youngest rocks, in this case Carboniferous rubbly limestone, are in the trough of the syncline. These Carboniferous rocks have beds as much as 50 centimetres thick alternating with shale. Several small folds in the limestone complicate the larger syncline.

 

Fig. 33. Thin-bedded Carboniferous Limestone lies on muddy limestone at West Angle Bay. The muddy limestone (dipping to the left) thrusts over the nearly vertical main limestone on the right.

               

                The path to the north of the cove crosses into the Old Red Sandstone. These rocks include mudstone, sandstone and conglomerate similar to other Old Red Sandstone outcrops in the area.

 

The A478/A4139

Pembroke (198 202) -- Begelly (212 207).  17 miles (27 km)

    A4139 Pembroke to Tenby

The road from Pembroke to Manorbier crosses a flat grassy plateau with no outcrops. 

    Manorbier (206 198)

Fig. 34. Vertical sandstone and mudstone of the Old Red Sandstone at Manorbier.

 

                The shore at Manorbier, below the castle ruins, shows fine outcrops of Devonian mudstone and thin sandstone so strongly folded that the sedimentary layers are vertical. The sandy beds, which are as much as ten centimetres thick, have rippled upper surfaces. Some of the mudstone contains layers of white nodules as large as five centimetres in diameter. These are similar to those at Llanstephan (235 210) , and are the typical calcite concretions, caliche, that precipitated in the Devonian soils during dry periods when Wales was at latitude about twenty degrees south.                

                South of Tenby, folds repeat the Carboniferous Limestone and underlying Old Red Sandstone, both of which appear as lines of poor exposures across the Pembroke Peninsula. A prominent ridge stretches from Penally (211 199), southwest of Tenby, to Pembroke. Outcrops are scarce, though the same Old Red Sandstone conglomerate, called the Ridgeway Conglomerate in the Gower, underlies this ridge. The red soil in the surrounding fields is typical of the Old Red Sandstone.

    Tenby (Dinbnych-y-Pysgod) (214 201)

                Tenby is a popular resort where cars are prohibited during summer business hours. It is on the southern edge of the Pembrokeshire Coalfield and lies in the keel of a large east-west trending synclinal trough. The same Carboniferous Limestone you see at Pendine on the north side of the boat-shaped fold, or syncline, reappears on the south side of the harbour at Tenby. A major fault thrusts this limestone up to the north over the younger Coal Measures. The cliffs along the shore north of Tenby contain sandstone and shale of the Coal Measures. Some sandstone beds are as much as three metres thick and show deltaic features such as cross bedding. There are excellent examples of tight folds from the Hercynian collision north of the steps to the middle part of the beach. Some of the folded layers are nearly vertical.

Fig. 35. Geologic map and cross section between Pendine and Penally. The cross section is from Tenby to north of Amroth.

 

    The A478 and side roads

    Tenby to Begelly

 

                The best examples of Hercynian folding lie along the coast road south of Begelly.

    Saundersfoot (214 205)

                The rocks at Saundersfoot are sandstone and mudstone of the Lower Coal Measures. The southern harbour wall has fine large folds in the sandstone.

                Lady Cove, the second cove south of Saundersfoot harbour, boasts one of the most famous folds in the world. It is not particularly unusual, just photogenic, and appears in many geology texts as a classic example of an arch-like fold, or anticline.

 

Fig. 36. Anticlinal fold at Lady Cove, south of Saundersfoot.

 

The fold is in thinly bedded sandstone and shale showing many ripple marks on their surfaces. The rhythmic layering makes the rock easy to fold because the thin beds can slide over each other, like folded pages of a magazine. Scratches left on many of the bedding surfaces show where this sliding occurred.

The Coast Road

Begelly (212 207) -- Pendine (223 208).  10 miles (15 km)

                The C-class road between Begelly and Pendine and Amroth (216 207) follows a high grass-covered terrace, and passes no bedrock outcrop.

Fig. 37. Coal Measure rocks at Amroth West. The light coloured rock is a "seat earth," a leached tropical soil.

 

                The Carboniferous rocks west of Amroth are tightly folded, and much broken along faults. Some are smashed beyond recognition. The first rocks in the cliff section are typical of the Coal Measures--bleached mudstone full of brown ironstone concretions, overlain by black, organic-rich mudstone deposited in a swamp. There are many repetitions of the delta to swamp cycle in the rocks west of Amroth. Unfortunately, the folds and faults have so disrupted the layers of rock that it is very difficult to keep track of the individual sequences.

                In the short drive between west and east Amroth the road crosses the old Hercynian mountain front and the rocks to the east are relatively undeformed.

                Sandstone of the Coal Measures is exposed in the cliffs about 150 metres east of the promenade at Amroth East (218 207). The rocks at the base of the cliffs are brownish sandstone that shows cross beds and ripples on the bedding surfaces. These sedimentary structures are typical of deltas. The upper parts of the cliffs are grey mudstone, and are white towards the top. This white band of bleached rock is called a "seat earth" as a thin band of coal sits on this layer. Above the coal is more cross-bedded sandstone.

 

Fig. 38. Coal Measures sequence in the cliffs east of Amroth East.

 

                This sequence shows the typical history of the Coal Measures in one place. The environment begins as shallow water that the delta fills with the sand. Then the river shifts its course to another channel leaving behind sheltered backwaters that fill with mud. Rainwater soaks into and through the mud, leaching it of soluble material and turning it white. Swamp vegetation and trees then flourish, die, and turn into peat. Sea level rises, and the whole process starts again, burying the peat beneath a new delta.

               

 

The change from the deltaic deposits of the Coal Measures to the underlying Carboniferous Limestone, is not visible from the road. The contact is at Ragwen Point, about 1.5 kilometres along the beach southwest of Pendine. However, the cliffs at Pendine provide fine examples of the limestone.

            


The back roads between Pendine and Carmarthen



Fig. 39. Map of area between CarmarthenLlanstephan and Pendine.


The A4066

Pendine (223 208) -- St. Clears (228 216)   9 miles (14 km)            

Pendine (223 208)

                Waves created the fine sandy beach at Pendine from sand brought to the region by ice-age glaciers. The Pendine sands were once famous for land speed record attempts before the Bonneville Flats in Utah were developed.

                A quarry (225 208) east of Pendine works red mudstone of the Old Red Sandstone. The contact with the overlying Carboniferous Limestone is not visible, but the limestone makes the magnificent set of cliffs west of the village. These cliffs offer one of the best sections of Carboniferous Limestone in Wales. The cliff section to Amroth, six kilometres to the west, follows the rocks layer by layer up into the Coal Measures.

Fig. 40. Carboniferous Limestone in the Pendine cliffs.

 

                The limestone layers are typically ten to twenty metres thick (Fig. 40).  The sea of Carboniferous time must have been virtually free of mud for a long time to deposit such thick layers of pure limestone made from the remains of tiny animals. Vertical fractures (joints) in the limestone keep the cliffs steep. Waves undercutting the limestone cause the rocks above to collapse along these fractures.

             Some of the limestone layers are masses of rubble. Water dissolved the limestone to create sinkholes and caves when sea level dropped; eventually the roofs collapsed filling the caves with rubble (Fig. 41).                

.       

 

Fig. 41. Rubble breccia in collapsed cave in Carboniferous Limestone. West end of Pendine beach.

 

                The A4066 east of Pendine crosses Devonian and Carboniferous rocks laid down near the coastline of the Avalon/North American continent. The road between Laugharne (230 211) (the setting for Dylan Thomas' "Under Milk Wood") and St. Clears follows the Afon Taf. Bedrock outcrops are rare in this region, but there are a few exposures of red mudstone of the Old Red Sandstone near Thomas' boathouse at Laugharne.

                Dunes south of Laugharne get most of their sand from ice-age sediment carried to the coast in rivers swollen with water from melting glaciers of the last ice age. Waves swept the sediment down the coast and onto the upper beach, where the wind whipped it into the dunes.

 


The B4312

Carmarthen (241 220) to Llanstephan (235 210)    7 miles (11 km)

                The low peninsula southwest of Carmarthen (Fig. 39) has almost no bedrock outcrops. You can see some Cambrian and Ordovician mudstone around Llangynog (234 215), but only in streambeds or on private property.

                Rocks of the Devonian Old Red Sandstone that lie on the folded Ordovician rocks make up the cliffs of the peninsula; the best exposures are along the shore south of Llanstephan. However, the first outcrops in the cliffs south of the Llanstephan car park are of red Irish Sea till and some river sand. The exposures of the Old Red Sandstone rocks are south of these glacial sediments. The beds dip to the north, so the walk south takes you into progressively older layers.

                The higher part of the Old Red Sandstone formation is mostly grey to green mudstone, the red mudstone becoming dominant in the older rocks farther south. The original sediments were probably laid down on mud flats. Look carefully in the mudstone for blotches of limestone that look like white pebbles. These are blobs of calcium carbonate-- or caliche-- that crystallized in the soil during Devonian time. Caliche forms in semi-desert soils today, when the occasional rain soaks into the ground, then evaporates, and leaves nodules of calcium carbonate behind. Wales was about twenty degrees south of the equator at the time, and periods of drought would have been common.

                These limy concentrations are more common where the coastline turns west; the rocks look like limestone gravel. It seems reasonable to suppose that water collected in temporary shallow lakes on the mud flats as the Old Red Sandstone was laid down, since similar limestone layers, often called tufa, collect in shallow dry-climate lakes today. In Devonian time as the lakes evaporated, dissolved calcium carbonate precipitated to become uneven beds of limestone. 

Fig. 42. Red and green Old Red Sandstone rocks, to the right of the steps, and a rubbly caliche beneath the steps. Cliffs south of Llanstephan Village.

 

 

The various roads from the peninsula to Carmarthen show no outcrops except at a road-metal quarry in the village of Llangynog that produces black dolerite, an igneous rock that invaded the Ordovician mudstone soon after it was laid down.

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